A blast of the Byzantine

Our day began schlepping up to the top of Kastoria to visit the Byzantine Museum which was free because it’s ‘European Heritage Day’ today. We saw wondrous artworks, but include only one here so as not to overload those for whom this is not their thing.

This is Saint Panteleimon (if you know your Philip Pullman) from the 15th Century.

We then asked if any of the Byzantine churches were open – apparently there are more than fifty in what, on the surface, appears to be a very modern town – and a rather gorgeous guy with a man-bun led us behind the museum, along a track to a car-park with an absolutely beautiful, tiny church – the opening picture – which he opened for us. The church was 10th century, but damaged during the war. The ceiling in the photograph below is, apparently, exceptional because it shows the Holy Trinity, which is never normally part of the iconography.

After that, we made our way down through the town, coming across some wonderful, tiny churches – sometimes taken over by someone growing vegetables in the front, sometimes nearly overwhelmed by nearby buildings. Here are a few.

The final church on the tip of the peninsula, apparently established when the Normans were conquered
Sue’s favourite scene, inside the church

14 thoughts on “A blast of the Byzantine”

  1. Hi Miriam and Sue
    Apologies for our silence but I am trying to avoid looking at my emails while away! But really enjoying hearing about, and seeing pictures of, your travels.
    We too are having a great time away and relishing the ‘otherness’ of it all. Much love C&A

    1. So glad you are having a good time and not looking at emails! Hope all goes well for the rest of your trip and look forward to hearing all when I see you next. XX

    1. Thanks – and now we’re in Florina, whose patron saint is Panteleimon – also patron saint of bakers we understand. Tomorrow, we’ll have to seek out the Panteleimon Cathedral before we leave. XX

  2. Very good to see lyra(h)’s daemon especially as the girl herself is currently in great ormond street. Let’s hope it brings her luck. (Think she’ll be ok. She’s got mastoiditis.) it’s been a stressful few days. Looks like you’re having a great time. So pleased

  3. Oh, these little churches are delightful. And the frescoes, especially Panteleimon in his rich orange raiment. (Linkage here with lilies of the field, pants/daks…) I read that Panteleimon (‘all-compassionate’) studied medicine, and did miraculous healing, so he may well be useful to your Lyrah, Alison.

    1. He’s also apparently the patron saint of bakers – so there’s an interesting chain to thread together. The icon of him is definitely one of my favourites.

  4. Intrigued by how the Holy Ghost has been depicted – I expect you see what you want to see (and that’s probably the point) but looks like a duck’s bill to me.

    1. Yes, I can see the slight blurring between the depiction of the Holy Ghost as a dove of peace and a duck’s bill though it feels just a tad sacrilegious?

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