We left Kolkata early this morning to travel north by car for six hours through progressively smaller roads until we could barely squeeze between the bicycles, and finally arrived at Bari Kothi, a wonderfully-restored heritage home in a village in Murshidabad – but more about all that tomorrow. The river, which is visible from our balcony, flows from the Ganges to join the Hoogly further south. We journeyed upstream on Bari Kothi’s barge – just us and several lovely staff members – in the afternoon mist:
There was no other traffic on the river, although there were fishing boats which were presumably put to use at night:
It was chilly which probably explains why the goats were wearing cardigans:
We stopped off at a vegetable farm and walked through the fading light, admiring the cabbages, carrots, aubergines, mooli, bananas, pumpkins, tomatoes, potatoes …
Getting back on the boat, we floated back downstream enjoying the dusk and the quiet, and watching the fruit bats overhead. To our surprise, we passed our dock and went to the other side of the river for a puja that happens every night, come what may. Sue and I are not spiritual types but we were genuinely moved by the beauty, choreography and sound of the event.
There are videos to go with this, but I have to sort them out and I’m too tired, so photos will have to do for now.
There was more excitement this evening, not least with a birthday hand decoration celebration and a birthday cake for Miriam – but more about all that tomorrow!
A very happy birthday Miriam, we are loving the diary. 10 days of rain and gales here, so a wonderful contrast….X
Thank you Vanessa! So glad you and Andy are enjoying the diary and hope the next post chases away the rain and gales. XXX
It all looks quite magical and so very tranquil. Bliss. Enjoy the temple complex tomorrow. Much love Claire
Thank you Claire and thank you so much for your and Annette’s card. This place is exceptional – think the rest of the trip will have much to live up to! Much love. M XXX
Sounds completely idyllic xx
It’s very different from other parts of India that we’ve been – and the river is wide, calm and empty
What a lovely way to spend your birthday. So tranquil and peaceful. Thank you for sharing it with us.
And thank you! It was exceptional – apart from the journey to get here but I can forget about that and remember the great pleasures of the rest of the day! XX
The river was really something. As night fell, about a dozen large fruit bats flow over and as it became dark, there was suddenly a great screeching and howling which we were told was foxes! Must have been quite a few of them partying.
Happy Birthday, Miriam! Oh, you are so whetting my appetite to follow in your footsteps in 10 days time. It looks and sounds truly idyllic. Simply beautiful in that unique way India has of being beautiful. Enjoy every second! Diana xx
Thank you so much Diana. It is quite an extraordinary place, though you must bring warm clothes (you are anyway, I think) as it is chilly! I’m sure you’re going to love every second of the place. XX
Happy birthday – belatedly! This looks amazing – more like the Kerala backwaters. I love the boat (raft?) sue is reclining on. You sure that goat hasn’t just adopted a dishrag?
Thank you Alison – take 20 degrees in temperature away and you’re right – could almost be the backwaters. More goats to come of course – we are enchanted by their sartorial taste. XXX
Definitely not adopted clothing – most goats seem to be wearing cardigans or T-shirts , with the occasional sack ( hessian chic)
How magical! It is as if you have entered a different universe.
Happy birthday Miriam. A birthday to remember.
Xx
It is a million miles away from Kolkata, let alone London. I think this kind of India is becoming harder to find – so we’re delighted that, thanks to Nikhil, here we are. XXX
Happy Birthday Miriam! What a place to enjoy it in.
Thank you Pip! Perhaps your next big adventure? XXX
Happy birthday Miriam ! Wonderful photos – it looks idyllic
Thank you Francis – idyllic but don’t be deceived by Sue’s relaxed pose – it is pretty cold here! XXX
Ahh, birthday on a misty river as calm as glass – it looks wonderfully blissful! Warmest birthday wishes from Rich and me. I’ve never see a goat in a cardigan. (Must tell my goat farmer brother in Canada that they’re missing a trick.) Look forward to more of the puja.
More goat attire to follow – they are obviously very conscious that the animals feel the cold because we’ve also seen cows in coats (well, hessian sacks rather than coats) as well as many, many goats. Thanks for good wishes and hope your New Year’s hike was wonderful. XX
Sue looks very comfortable on that barge – must have been lovely to be floating on water after a six-hour car journey. I see they thoughtfully provided you with shawls against the chill – and a notch up from the goat cardigan too!
It was a magical journey – and yes, not only shawls but a range of snacks and tea! The occasional bursts of loud thumping music from some wedding party or other on the bank only added to the charm.
Are goats in sweaters are cuter than kittens in mittens?.. Instagram page ‘Sweateredgoats’. I kid you not.
Well, who knew sweatered goats was a thing? Not the people round here I suspect. They also wrap up some cows ( not in sweaters of course – they would look foolish) and some of the children have blankets, hats and ear muffs, looking very sweet and sort of twice their actual size.
Happy belated birthday, Miriam. What a wonderful way to bring in the new year.
Sue, you looked like a princess on your boat traveling on the Ganges River. Just wonderful. xo, June
Hello, June – how lovely to hear from you! It was indeed a lovely way to celebrate M’s birthday and the start of 2023. And thank you for the princess compliment – I’m sure I should have made a stab at a more regal pose and perhaps a gown? Too late now, sadly…