Regular readers of our blog will already know about Bulgarian National Revivalism – for everyone else, check out the previous explanation. Turns out the old town of Plovdiv is full of wonderful examples, both restored and unresurrected: you can tell which is which, I think?
We bought tickets which would cover five houses, although our guidebook did say that two or three would suffice for most people. But ever enthusiastic, I was sure we’d want to do at least five.
Turns out that the guidebook was right – once one had been impressed with one or two, the rest began to blur, somewhat, with more or less dull furnishings detracting from the grand decorations and splendid-shaped reception rooms on the first floors.
The over-hanging balconies hint at the other reason for not visiting more than a few houses: Old Plovdiv is built on a very steep series of hills with cobbled streets. The architects of the houses overcame the challenge of building on such steep streets with lack of space at street level by building outwards on wooden trusses as you can see above and below.
Nevertheless, Plovdiv’s been a popular spot since the Thracians (hurrah!), and Alexander the Great’s father Philip extended the settlement in 342 BC, calling it Philippopolis (of course). A 2nd century AD amphitheatre was uncovered during a freak landslide in 1972 and it now hosts various special events:
There’s a lot more to the history of Plovdiv – Goths, Huns, Bulgars, Crusaders, Ottomans … all have been through here. But as we keep saying about Bulgarian history, it’s complicated! As a reminder, right in the middle of the pedestrianised shopping zone is Bulgaria’s first working mosque built in 1364 originally, and rebuilt in the mid-15th century.
What’s not apparent from all these buildings is Plovdiv’s cool side – which is very cute. So here are some contrasting images: the cafe we went to this morning mid house-visiting, the craft beer bar we imprinted on and a couple of street scenes.
That’s more like it! Now looks like somewhere I’d be interested in going! Reminds me a bit of Gjirokaster in Albania – especially the long list of houses to visit.
Plovdiv definitely worth visiting – gorgeous buildings in the old part of the city ( on a hill, tricky cobbles) and lots of bars, restaurants, shops clustered further down with excellent people watching, good wine and craft beers…
I guess you can have too much of a good thing. I keep wondering what your hotels etc are like. I guess they’re not maharadja’s palaces…? Love, G
Few, if any, maharaja palaces, though frankly, Gabriele, I’m so confused about the history, I’m quite willing to believe the moguls were here at some dodgy point in the nineteenth century. Hotels have been grand – varied, all comfortable, all clean and some fabulous….
Looks charming if still a little chilly? Makes me wonder if cafe Plovdiv in Green Lanes might be worth a visit!
Confident cafe Plovdiv worth a visit! Yes, still chilly – now in the mountains so snow topped vistas, occasional shaggy sheep, very good food and wine…
Very keen on the crocheted bike warmer – it’s what your mind must inevitably turn to once you’ve made umpteen tea cosies.
You’re so right! This bike warmer must have taken many, many hours… ( and why is somehow the inevitable question). We’re now in the mountains – off season skiing resorts gripping. Food and wine continue to be very good…
How fascinating
A note on the crocheted bike, we have guerilla knitters as they are known, here in Chesham. Posts, letterboxes, bicycles, all sorts have hand crafted covers, perhaps it was started by an ex-resident of Plovdiv..
Love the amphitheatre story
Well, I hope a Plovdiv knitter is active in Chesham!