This is our sixth UNESCO site (one more to go) and we can say with authority that we saved the most outstanding site in Bulgaria until now, knowing that everything else paled into insignificance by comparison.
After squeezing the car into an even smaller space than usual, made more nerve-wracking by the tour buses coming and going, we stepped (well, hobbled over the cobblestones) into Rila Monastery, set against a backdrop of snow-covered mountains.
The monastery has occupied this location since 1335, with a tower that dates from that time:
The monastery suffered damage and destruction during the Ottoman conquest and occupation, and after a fire in 1833, the Ottoman Sultan allowed the rebuilding of the monastery. Funds flooded in from Bulgarian and foreign doners and rebuilding during the Bulgarian ‘National Revival’ (about which regular readers know) gave the monastery new nationalist meaning. Even the Communists recognised this and proclaimed a national museum in 1961. Twenty-two years later, it was recognised by UNESCO as a world heritage site.
The Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary is covered with many frescoes, as you can see:
The theme of the frescoes is the triumph of good over evil, and light over darkness. Here are some great examples of what happens to you at the time of judgement.
As usual, photos inside were not allowed but the place was full of pilgrims as well as tourists. Nikhil and I spent a good five minutes watching a priest in full regalia stand over a table with some small icons. Opposite him was a woman in a pink tracksuit. He read out some prayers, then pulled out a bunch of herbs which were wetted (with holy water?) and he sprinkled the icons by flicking the herbs while chanting and addressing her. They both crossed themselves and he handed over the icons, for her to take home. Now that’s what you call a take-away!
This is simply stunning!
It really was! Despite tourist buses a really special place..
This is fantastic! What a gorgeous building and glorious frescoes.
It was completely stunning – at the end of a long valley and surrounded by mountains..
I’ve not ever seen anything quite like it – both the building and the frescoes (kind of Hieronymus Bosch meets Goya in the Balkans?). Fabulous photos – thanks.
The Bosch thing is spot on – loads of pictures of people surrounded by/ shadowed by these nasty, dark, but somehow energetically malevolent beings. The holy saviour figures have nothing like the same pizzaz..
Spectacular. Your photographic skills are really quite something.
Time is spent – sometimes quite long time – getting right pic but , yes, you’re right – M is v skilful photographer
Magnificent site. Great photos. Rich history.
So right, Elizabeth, on all three points…
Looks amazing – the difference in style and state of preservation of the frescoes suggests they were painted over a period of time – presumably some had to be restored after the fire. And who knew there were six world heritage sites in Bulgaria!
Well, not just six but nine! This was a pretty stunning place, though – frescos gorgeous – and yes, I’m sure you’re right – different stages of restoration…