I am afraid that we have been bombarding you with monuments – and you haven’t seen any from Orchha – of which there were many – and today’s stop in Chanderi. So time for some other stuff!
Three nights ago we stayed in the most expensive hotel we’ve ever stayed in – the Usha Kiran – and the following two nights at the Amar Mahal at a seventh of the cost.
The Usha Kiran is part of the Taj chain and is housed in the nineteenth century guest house of the Maharaja of Gwalior whose palace is next door. The welcome ceremony started at the gate when we were greeted by a horse and carriage to take us to the front door – we refused and I didn’t take any pictures because they seemed disappointed.
This guy was blowing a horn to announce our arrival:
There were big drums and somebody rushed over with an umbrella (we’re not sure if this was it – probably not):
We were upgraded to a suite – and it was enormously comfortable with an excellent shower and toiletries (which somehow found their way into our bags along with terrific teabags).
Breakfast was another experience with musicians playing on the freezing cold terrace outside the dining room:
And perhaps the most surprising event was the release of the rabbits who huddled together for warmth, and the provision of carrots for those who wanted to feed them:
The departure was similarly ritualised with the obligatory photo with the staff and a gift of two sandstone coasters engraved with a squirrel! (Those of you who know Sue at all will know that she hates squirrels.)
And now for our other hotel, where wedding preparations and pre-wedding shoots were taking place.
We were taken by the advertising for the shop when we arrived:
We kept tripping over the pre-wedding shoot which involved the bride and groom being filmed in different locations and outfits to try and tell a story. For example, an evening set-up required a bottle of pepsi to pretend to be wine with two glasses:
As the shooting moved into the next day, everybody looked more and more tired and fed-up:
The decorations began to appear gradually, filling up the courtyards and indicating what was to come:
And now for a contrast. We had a terrific guide yesterday who took us to a special festival at the Rama temple in town – it was great! We couldn’t take pictures inside, but here’s the temple (there’s an enormously long story about this one, of course) and a video of some of the pilgrims outside for you to play:
Both hotels seem great in their different ways. Shame about the horse drawn carriage. Not too many monuments at all. None from orchha or Sanchi for that matter!
The other really nice part of the welcome at the Taj was that they sent both tea and a hot toddy for my cold to the room immediately. Sorry if the monument rate has dipped – hard to keep up with the amazing stuff we’re seeing.
We’re still laughing at all the grandiloquent theatre! (Not just so palpably at the Usha Kiran and the wedding, but perhaps also a theme in other posts ?) All while celebrating rodents and feeding rabbits!
The rabbits were particularly surprising – as the staff member walked past with them in their cage, my first thought was gosh, I didn’t know Indians ate rabbits ( shows how my mind works I guess).
Back in the day I had dinner at a Taj hotel, which was all we could afforded. I remember musicians and dancers and one man whose sole job seemed to be to light your cigarette ( those were the days) before you could!
Looks like you’re having a fabulous time and I’m loving the palaces. C xxx
Ah, dinner, dancing, cigarettes ( in holders I trust), yes those were the days! We are indeed having a fabulous time and I’m confident there will be more palaces!
Claire and I do enjoy taking a break from sight-seeing to watch a pre-nuptial photo shoot. They appear to test the tempers of most couples and, judging from the use of safety pins, lead to significant weight gain.
They also seem to take a lot of work and many changes of outfit. The table with two glasses of red wine/ Pepsi was part of the story of ‘ Our First Date’ apparently- the groom in particular seemed v anxious about how his hair looked( well, we all know the feeling)..
Apparently, its wedding season – the one we caught in Kolkata was rather a sad affair. The Rama temple looks great and chanting lovely.
Sorry you are still wearing your jackets…….
Yes, you’re right about wedding season I think, we passed a riotous arrival of the groom parade blocking the road on our travels today. Weather still definitely chilly – bundles of cotton shirts and light trousers remain untouched!
Did you investigates the ‚junk‘?
You know what? No, we didn’t! We’ve barely bought anything so far apart from bananas and biscuits. Still time for junk buying though.
Waw waw the hotel! A trip in itself.
Indeed – both hotels gripping in different ways ( though one was much warmer than the other!)
Indian weddings! I do feel sorry for the bridge and groom and you were lucky you only stayed one night – ie before the wedding actually took place!
Yes, indeed! When we arrived ( and we stayed 2 nights) we were alarmed that the wedding was imminent – fortunately it was taking place the day we were leaving. The prep was still going on as we left – some of it, I think, was a Copacabana theme with an Indian twist but M doesn’t agree…
Thank you for for all the beautiful pictures! And Jessie couldn’t agree with you more, Sue, regarding squirrels!!
Yes, I’ve always trusted Jessie’s judgement on these issues!
Just catching up on your trip after a wifi drought. So nice that you’re following in our footsteps for a change – yet what a different trip you’re having, with cold foggy weather and guides that have taken you to some quite different places. All fabulous, of course, and it makes me realise that one can return to India many, many times and always experience it in new ways (phew, that’s a relief). And Orchha….Sigh. Possibly our favourite place in India. Can’t wait to hear about your stay at the Sarai and meeting Joanna!
Great to hear from you Diana – we continue to be pursued by cold fog interspersed with clear blue skies – not sure what the dawn safari will be like when we get to Panna. We meet up with our friends from Australia, Rosalind and Paul, who’ll be staying there with us for the next three nights. Photos from Orchha still to be posted as I concentrated on the paintings to give readers a change from monumental buildings. Next post to come from the Sarai!