We are leaving Delhi at 3.00 in the morning, so this is our last blog from this holiday. We had today to see some things we hadn’t done before – the National Craft Museum (wonderful!) was our first stop. By chance, our taxi driver was a Sikh and we got into a political conversation of great interest, not least because all the roads had armed soldiers along the way. He explained that Mr Modhi was going to drive through, so three roads (so nobody knew which one he was going to take) were completely blocked off, including the one on which the National Craft Museum sat.
When we wanted to leave, we were told to go back inside and the doors to the museum were shut. Our taxi driver was screamed at with a rifle-pointing soldier/policeman being particularly assertive. We were then shut inside for a while until Mr Modhi had passed.
We were really shocked but it turns out that this is not a rare occurrence. And then when we returned to the hotel, we found this:

We are relieved to be leaving today and not having to sit with the blinds down tomorrow!
Anyway, we wanted to visit the Sikh Gurudwara anyway, and our taxi driver was delighted to take us – and he showed us round. It was a magical experience. The temple was magnificent:

Because we were with our friend (by now), he introduced us to a young woman as we took our shoes – and socks – off and she explained the basics of Sikhi. He carefully covered our heads for us:

And then we went into the main preaching area which was wonderful – reading from the holy book – an ongoing process, and peaceful prayer and meditation all around:

We walked around the complex, and were astonished at the kitchens, preparing food for thousands of people a day – 35,000 on a Sunday and hundreds of thousands on special days.







Orange suits you! I’m trying to imagine peeling potatoes for 35000. Overall looks like a lovely final day, even sans alcool. Have a very safe and comfortable trip home.
It was a lovely last day. Now back home after a smooth journey. Not much washing to do as we wore the same clothes and our puffer jackets every day!
This has been a lovely blog and the top photo of you two is great. Not so much with the orange turbans. When Modi was in Gujarat last year, our car was ordered off the road and into some gully so a coach of delegates (not even Modi) to a conference could drive unhindered down the road.
We’re very glad not to be in Delhi for Independence Day and feeling pressured to attend flag raising on the lawn of the Shangri La hotel…
The pair of you in your crafted headgear is a tremendous delight for your followers. I think this should be your lead photo for all future travels.
Safe trip home, see you soon.
Thank you, Tash – we’ll bear your recommendation for future branding in mind!
How wonderful- and it reminds me of our trip to Amritsar-similarly with kitchens designed to feed thousands and enormous vats for cooking rice. Looking forward to hearing more in person. Safe travels
Yes, let’s meet soon!
What a fantastic trip! Have enjoyed the photos and the narrative
So glad you enjoyed it, Frances – see you soon I hope
What an extraordinary trip you have had. Thank you for taking us to so many different places in the one trip. I am exhausted!
You and me both! Whilst always interesting and often very beautiful, there is something very full on about travelling in India. When we got to the airport lounge in Frankfurt this morning it was quiet, clean, orderly and tidy – felt like an alternative universe…
I loved your orange turbans.
Mr Modhi – I’m also happy you’ve escaped this visit.
The temple is magnificent.
Wishing you a good return, and looking forward to face to face stories. xx
Thank you, Elizabeth – and see you soon.
The letter from the hotel about keeping the curtains closed, not serving alcohol and having a nationalistic flag-hosting ceremony is a touch chilling – but glad to hear you want be there to witness it. Safe journey home and see you soon, we hope!
Sorry fat finger error resulting in ‘won’t’ becoming ‘want’.
Yes, the letter from the patriotic hotel management was indeed chilling. Last night as we were leaving Delhi around 11pm it was clear that the roads in the whole of the centre were going to be blocked with armed soldiers on parade. Frightening stuff I think.
Thanks a million – I loved hearing about every experience and the photos are so good. I was surprised at how cold it was the whole time – I was in that area in January many years ago and the weather was very different – though didn’t do any early morning excursions!
So glad you enjoyed it Hermione. The weather wasn’t normal – we’ve been in central and northern India in January and it’s generally been fine during the day and a bit chilly at night. We didn’t eat breakfast once this time without our coats! I started thinkingly longingly of all those lovely thermal vests nestled in my drawer at home!
Brilliant! – stories, photos and comments. Lots of laughs. Thank you.
btw I managed to avoid all whiff of the authoritarian patriotism by having a quiet day at home and with neighbours without TV.
How very sensible of you! We were glad not to be confined to our hotel room with the blinds down for security reasons, as instructed by the hotel management…
Just sorry we were not able to meet in Delhi before you left. x
Next time for sure!
Wow Miriam! You appeared in a dream last night, so I googled you, and here you are, in a most unexpected place 😄! I shall return to share more of your adventures. Best, Jo x
Goodness Jo! How clever of you to find this! I didn’t think it would come very high on a search list because it doesn’t have many links. Great to hear from you and hope all is well with you. All the best, Miriam