We had driven many hours yesterday so that we would be able to visit Vardzia as soon as it opened (in keeping with our other Georgian experiences, late both officially and actually). It is an astonishing city of caves on some thirteen levels now – though there were more. It was established in the Bronze Age, developed as a defensive site in 11-13th centuries designed to accommodate up to 50,000 people, destroyed by an earthquake in 1283 and abandoned in the 16th century. Amazingly, the monks moved back in 1988 and some monks and nuns still live there.
The active church (no photos – always no photos in Georgian churches) feels pretty astonishing and is still, apparently, a popular Orthodox pilgrimage site. A few frescos outside remain:
The views across the valley were astonishing, even on a cloudy day:
And we were relieved not to have to deal with wet steps on top of the fairly precarious arrangements for gaining access to the caves.
Despite the signs banning dogs (and hookahs), we were pleased to see that the usual friendly look-outs were taking no notice:
Our next stop – something of a contrast – was a tiny village up in the mountains, with a cheerful nun, a cherished church and fabulous megalithic stones covered in bright orange lichen.
The nuns had planted the area with flowers, recycling the stones as borders:
And of course, the usual dog watched over us (I feel a theme coming on):
We didn’t do the walk – but anyone thinking of coming here with their hiking gear might consider it:
Wow! These caves are amazing. What an extraordinary place. Bit naughty of those nuns to shift the megalithic stones out of place. The description of the walk you didn’t do sounds amazing. If we get there I think we’ll give it a go.
It was a fabulous site – quite extraordinary, although we met a young bloke who seemed to be helping the newly settled monks who said his real ambition was to get to Goa and Bali. You’re probably right about the nuns but their garden was v pretty.
What a marvellous place.
I must agree with Alison about nuns, you can’t just shift around ancient megaliths. The flowers, however, we’re lovely
The garden was gorgeous and they may have had heavenly help to shift the stones I guess..
Love all this. Looks amazing. The megalithic stones look volcanic?
They do indeed – maybe brought to Georgia from, say, Naples for some serious Bronze Age purpose? We’ll probably never know..
Interesting selection of dogs – oh yes, caves etc v nice
Thanks, Tash – am confident more dogs will make an appearance…
Extraordinary caves, and I love the garden. Thank goodness the nuns were and still are around.
Only four nuns left I think – others no doubt exhausted from moving v large rocks around …
Oh, you’re finally there! I’ve been checking and then missed a few days, so it’s a pleasure, today, to find you gently trundling across the Georgian countryside. What an intriguing place! I’m looking forward to future instalments. And watch out for those crazy drivers. Have a wonderful trip. Love Diana
Not completely sure trundling is the mot just but yes intriguing and fascinating place…
Those caves look very very very cold – and the nuns must have thighs of iron running up and down those steps (perhaps how they stave off hypothermia in winter?) Too bad you two aren’t permitted your hookahs.
The cave with a sign saying ‘ refectory’ was blackened inside so assume fire and heat and lots of hunkering down. Tomorrow M tells me we’re visiting a column on the top of which a monk lived for 24 years – and I’m confident he didn’t have a hookah either..
I feel I ought to say something in defence of the nuns! I find it hard to believe they could have moved those monoliths (thighs of iron as mentioned by someone above) or not. Perhaps they didn’t move the monoliths at all but simply planted between stones that had already fallen. .