We arrived last night after yet another incredibly efficient and punctual flight thanks to Latam. We were in our pre-ordered taxi within fifteen minutes of touchdown and whisked through the very busy and modern streets of Cuzco before driving up the narrowest and steepest of lanes to our gorgeous hotel. (For the many reading the blog who have been to Cuzco, we are staying in San Blas.)
Despite having spent two nights at nearly the same height as Cuzco, we are still being affected by altitude sickness – chicken soup was all we could manage for dinner. It will pass, but it does make stairs a bit challenging.
But we managed the walk down the very steep hills passing a little square near our hotel where some kind of argument about parking seemed to be taking place (‘You can’t keep your llama here’):
After declining (politely) the many offers of massages, tours, shoe-cleaning and meals, the main square, dominated by the Cathedral and associated churches, was our first stop. At this point, I felt a bit glum because, extraordinary as the place was, it seemed to be entirely about tourism.
We were devastated to learn that we weren’t able to take photos inside any of the churches we visited (though some followers of the blog might be relieved given the gory flavour of some of the images). But in the Cathedral – an enormous and oppressive demonstration of power without spiritual feeling – we were so taken with Saint Jerome, patron saint of tour guides, that I had to find a picture of him on the web
We’ll save you from photos of the Lord of the Earthquakes and some of the most elaborately clothed figures we’ve ever seen, but suffice to say that it was extremely difficult not to try and sneak the odd photo.
Several churches later – including one with bones on display in the crypt – and just a street or two away, the atmosphere changed and we were suddenly in the city proper. We stumbled on a small local fiesta next to the market which was clearly not put on for tourists but instead was celebrating the anniversary of something nearby (sorry, I didn’t understand when I was told). It had something to do with this:
The first lot of dancing – accompanied by the loud and not very tuneful but extra large band – was absolutely fabulous:
The women were absolutely fantastic – bored but engaged:
The men were also funny, banging their big drums and playing their instruments while shuffling forwards and back:
And fabulously, when this group had finished, another quite different group took over:
They were much more vigorous (and younger) with some great energetic jumps from the ment:
Probably the best bit was that the first group were watching them and taking pictures while they recovered:
We also needed to rest after all that excitement and what better than a fresh juice from a charming young woman with whom I chatted (in Spanish) about why I don’t like mangoes:
The market was fantastic – lots of people in local dress, women stall holders eating lunch, great produce! But we’ve already shown you a market so here are just a couple of images that struck us as somewhat unusual:
I won’t hazard a guess at the bursty-veined bone, but I did love the women’s swirling skirts undergirded in yards of pastel petticoats. Thanks for the videos – really captured the moment (and the music! – 4 tubas and a sousaphone? Must have been an enormous band)
The band was great and the drumming plus brass fantastic. I loved their red blazers and white shoes ( except one trombone player who hadn’t got the memo and was in brown shoes) – fantastic atmosphere.
What great fun seeing all the dancers and the market but how sad that the main square of Cusco is overtaken by tourism. Still, it sounds as if the 250 yard rule applies.
I do hope that the altitude sickness improves.
The main square is a bit tourist focused but very light hassle – we’ve been in much worse – and all patrolled by municipal police in spotless green uniforms. And yes, the 250 yard rule definitely applies – the market and surrounds felt quite different. Altitude sickness on the wane now I think.
The older women dancers have such great hats, bags and shoes. Of course the petticoats catch the eye, but my oh my, the accessories. I’m wondering whether the black plaits are fake hair attached to hat, somehow.
How wonderful to turn a corner and find an unexpected parade.
Veiny thing – testicles? Many will think this, fewer will say.
The women dancers were just gripping and went off for beer and we think stronger liquor once their set was done. No idea if it was a hat/ hair combo – and no way would I think of asking! We also thought testicles but didn’t look very closely…
What wonderful dancers – the first group, though less engaged, are by far the most stylish: they all seem to have uniformly-shaped hips – are they wearing some sort of bustle arrangement or is body-shape a prerequisite for joining the troupe. The dance moves are presumably remnants of ancient tribal celebrations. I don’t want to even think about that item from the butchery counter….
The body shape seems quite familiar from other local women we’ve seen though most of these women were taller and somehow more substantial? And yes, the dance pattern spoke of something older. Let’s just pass over the butchery item in silence…
Love the dancers. I seem to remember some sort of demonstration as part of a strike when we were there. Definitely not as photogenic though I do have a photo of Charlie somewhere towering over the demonstrators. Hope the altitude settles – I was fine in Cusco, even to the point of eating guinea pig……….
Even I sometimes find myself towering over people here – not a familiar experience. Glad you were feeling better by the time you got to Cusco – we seem to be getting our appetites back and may even try gpig tonight. Weirdly you can get guinea pig back packs ( in the shape of them I mean not made of them or indeed for them..
Looks like a hernia! The dancing was great! Amazing number of people involved!
Oh, so that’s what a hernia looks like! Yes, big local troupes who’d clearly been practising for many weeks..
I love the traditional colouful clothes. Great to have videos of the dancing. Fantastic to have snapshots of the local scene.
Thank you, Blaize – those colourful clothes ( only women?) are surprisingly common and I love the reds in particular