After an unsuccessful attempt to go on tours to see two archaeological sites near Cajamarca, we hired Marcello to drive us first to Cumba Mayo (‘Narrow River’ in the local language – you’ll see why shortly) and later to an ancient necropolis (more about this tomorrow).
When we arrived after quite a drive up and up and up on a dirt road to the site at 3,500 metres, one other car sat in the large carpark, but a kid showed us where to park. It turned out that he was a guide and we decided to hire him since the site looked forbidding and incomprehensible:
Brian (really!) was eleven and only spoke Spanish but without him, we would not have been able to find our way in this most remarkable of places. He tried to persuade us to use the ‘servicios hygenicos’ before we left since there were none on the way but we declined. We had the obligatory photograph at the start of our adventure not knowing if we’d be talking at the end:
We descended into the valley via steep stone steps and climbed up to look at some petrographs from 1500-1000 BCE. Brian said this one is an ancient God but I have my doubts:
We climbed up and up until Brian insisted that we take a tunnel which was really difficult to get up to – Sue and I were on our hands and knees clambering up a very narrow and potentially slippy set of ‘steps’ made for giants I think. Memories of our previous tunnel experience came back and we kept trying to turn back, but it would have been worse. Eventually, we reached a flat, very narrow and very dark bit (by now I told Brian he had to carry my pack) which led, thankfully, to the light:
We found ourselves climbing up and over a hilltop via a number of petroglyphs and the occasional Andean woman who appeared to get us to take a photo or to try and sell us something:
We then descended carefully down some steep stone steps:
We arrived at a windswept valley with a view of those wonderful volcanic rocks:
And there was what we had come for: a canal built out of stone between 1500-1000 BC that stretches for some 9 km in length, with the most wonderful zig-zag angles and a bridge:
Now how did they do this so long ago without even the tools of the Inca? Along the way, there were more incomprehensible petroglyphs:
We also came across a rock which is thought to have been used as a ceremonial altar for sacrificial purposes. Brian made sure to tell us not to touch it so I didn’t. But we did see some gorgeous wildflowers as well:
Sue and I decided that this was one of the most extraordinary sites we’d ever seen – the wild, wild setting combined with this incredible engineering feat. And all anyone talks about are the Incas!
How lucky to have Brian at your side. I am not sure I would have been able to join you crawling through that tunnel but then again reaching the canal would have made it worthwhile. What an adventure!
Brian was immensely endearing and seemed to have no sense that we were as old – or indeed older – than his grandmother. The scramble up the tunnel/ gap between the rocks was really something..
This is my favourite post so far. I wanted to see a photo of Brian carrying you back but actually you just asked him to carry your pack. My fault for speed reading.
Brian would definitely have struggled carrying either of us back but he had a range of whistles ( probably alerting the women trying to sell stuff) that would have stood us in good stead in the event of accident – well, that’s what I like to think anyway..
Magical place!!
You would have loved it!
Wow. What an adventure. Who built the canal and what was it used for? Why was it built? And why in that particular place? Did Brian tell you? And how was your return journey?
No,no of course Brian couldn’t explain it though he had various dates and stuff to tell us. My guess is the water network was designed for irrigation and ceremonial uses – an astonishing feat by any measure.
Looks amazing – and you got to see it with no one else around – must have made it very special!
Quite right! We absolutely felt we were quite alone ( with Brian) in a truly extraordinary place – a very special experience
What a stupendous place and so intrepid of you to venture all the way. I think I may have been tempted to turn back at the giant steps. Hope the return journey from the canal wasn’t quite as nerve-wracking as the outward one.
The return journey was simply lovely – wild flowers, tadpoles, easy walking and empty! V quiet and just the sound of the wind.
What a fantastic adventure! I am truly green with envy. Such a great example of the engineering feats of early times. Canal-building is particularly interesting to me (also here in North America among Bronze Age indigenous peoples), when we realize how well these peoples understood water.
The engineering is incredible – it’s impossible to imagine both how they constructed the water channels ( such sharp edges and angles) and how they knew where to build it to capture the water flow… Amazing stuff.
That canal is amazing. Is it still used – for irrigation I’d guess? Sounds like quite a dramatic climb!
Not sure if it’s still used though water is still flowing mostly clearly through it. The climb – up and down- was great though needless to say we’d left our walking poles at the hotel..
Complete respect for your adventure with Brian
A really special day and Brian was great – so smiley and sweet! The guy who drove us there – Marcello – said Brian would be earning money in the holidays to help pay for tuition/ stuff at school..
What an adventure, and what an intrepid pair you are, and all in Spanish. I am so enjoying your blog and the gorgeous photos.
My Spanish is pretty rubbish but M’s is coming on by leaps and bounds, often driven by conversation with taxi drivers – she loaded Google translate on Marcello’s phone today ( he was our driver on long 6 hour haul to Trujillo)
Well done! I’m quite amazed by the pair of you – and Brian, of course.
Never to be forgotten Brian – complete sweetheart…