Travelling through miles and miles of sugar-cane fields, we finally arrived at an isolated site by the sea with three enormous pyramids, two unexcavated and the third the reason for our trip.
Huaca Cao Viejo, the largest, is topped by a 30 metre platform and, during its excavation, deep within the pyramid, the tomb of the Senora de Cao was discovered. She was clearly an important shamanic leader with intricate tattoos of spiders, fish and snakes on her hands and arms. Her tomb was full of gold, silver and precious stones, and others had been killed and buried with her, showing her importance. The figure in the opening picture on the blog was found with her. It is believed she died in childbirth.
Suddenly, the taken-for-granted low status of women during Mochica times (and before and after) was turned on its head by her discovery. Her mummified body is on display but appropriately no photos are allowed.
We marvelled at the small but excellent museum before visiting the site and being amazed at the preservation of the decoration.
We were, of course, the only people there when we walked around this incredible site which is still being excavated.
In the amazing museum, we saw this boat made from reeds with nets of cotton, used from 2000 BCE onwards to get around:
And when we had finished our hot but oh so informative visit, we went on to lunch at the same seaside village we had visited yesterday. Because it’s Monday, it was much quieter and we were able to visit the same boats still in operation today:
And now for some scenes from Trujillo this afternoon because we haven’t yet shown you around. We overlook this marvellous square with the thunking Cathedral just next to us, and many beautifully coloured buildings around the edges:
In the middle is a hideous sculpture made by some German. Apparently, first his legs were too long for him to balance, and they had to be shortened. Then, because his male appendage offended the ladies of Trujillo, that also had to be shortened.
There are all kinds of police in different uniforms whistling when people misbehave, or giving out tickets to cars who dare to stop for a second.
And round the square, all sorts of trade takes place – toffee apples on sticks, cakes being sold out of the back of a car …
The Lady of Cao site looks really exciting. I love finds like that, right in the midst of excavating. Amazing that it’s in such good condition – was all the treasure put into the museum, or had it been looted out centuries ago?
I think they found all of the grave goods which is pretty extraordinary. Even more exciting there’s another buried pyramid v nearby that is already being excavated…
This is most beautiful.
What a marvellous day you’ve had – new discoveries, rewriting of histories, and gorgeous encounter with beauty. I love it all.
It was a fabulous day – so much to learn and to celebrate!
Those trees with red flowers look like acacia trees and if I remember correctly from my childhood memories of Tanzania, this is the time of year they used to bloom but I remember them being covered in flowers – perhaps the exaggeration of memory.
Well, yes, possibly the exaggeration of memory ( lovely phrase) – these trees looked in fine condition and some were simply crowned in scarlet..
I’ve just caught up on 10 days of your travels. What an amazing time you hare having. I liked learning about the making and dying of alpaca wool. The mountains looks so dramatic. You find and get guided to the most extraordinary places. You have learnt and explained so much about the ruins/archeological sites you’ve visited. I was rather alarmed when you were on your hands and knees clambering up a very narrow and potentially slippy set of ‘steps’ the day you visited the ancient canals. I very much enjoyed Sue’s showing off of the luxurious bedroom and bathroom at the ‘bonkers’ hotel. You are clearly having the most stimulating trip.
Oh thank you Blaize for your enthusiastic following of our travels. It has been the most wonderful trip and I’m sure M will tell you more when you next speak. Peru is really a v special place..
I loved that site and the museum. Also very glad to see the fishing boats are still being used at Huanchaco. Trujillo is so pretty – have you been to Trujillo in Spain? Very grand with all the stolen goods Pisarro brought back.
And today we saw those improbable fishing boats actually out at sea with fishermen sitting astride them and casting nets. Yes, we have been to Trujillo in Spain – it all leaves a bit of a sour taste doesn’t it? The vindictiveness of the church and greed of the invaders is, if not surprising, pretty appalling..
Looks like a wonderful lively town enhanced by the architecture. What a brilliant trip
Yes,indeed – lively AND clean, totally swept and polished. Very relaxing spot though possibly just a tad too many churches..