We came to Kars to visit the UNESCO site of Ani, the old Armenian capital now divided from Armenia by a gorge and little else – the flag on the Armenian side making a clear statement:
There’s little left of the hundred thousand strong city which was established in the fifth century on a major east-west caravan route. At one time the city rivalled Constantinopole but by the eleventh century it was in the usual kind of occupation: Byzantine Empire, then Seljuks, then Armenians, then Mongol raids and finally a devastating earthquake in 1319.
The best preserved church, built in 1215, lies down a steep hill:
The frescoes inside are wonderful – note the upside down people who, we assume, are being tortured for some reason:
A second church, built in 1034, was struck by lightning in 1957 so that half the building was sheared away:
The cathedral is a dreadful mess but slowly being repaired:
And other churches and buildings stand in the wonderfully peaceful countryside with a snow-capped mountain in the background:
Here’s a video to try and capture the feel of it, though please excuse the Italians in the background – there were few tourists but they were loud!
And on to Kars, originally also founded by the Armenians before they went to Ani. Then the Seljuks, Mongols, Georgians and Ottomans – and in the nineteenth century the Russians came along a couple of times – the second in the Crimean War. In 1878, the town became Russian and was finally returned to Turkish rule in 1920. Here’s the train coach that the Russians gave to the head person at that time (he gave them white horses in return):
So the town has some distinctly belle epoque buildings (including the hotel we stayed in) and Russian-influenced dining in some of the posher places:
There’s also a cheese museum because Kars is famous for its cheese including Gruyere which was introduced when some Swiss cheesemakers came to help the locals make it:
This is Turkey – but maybe not as you think of it? (By the way, the food blog will be putting in an appearance shortly – keep an eye out!)
Blue sky….
Very, very blue – I sometimes have to check if I’m wearing my sun glasses because of the intensity of the colour…
I have my Turkish now ex PhD student and his boyfriend staying with me at the moment- they have been most impressed with your travels! The buildings are really striking, partly because they are often round in some way. The train carriages are odd – were they ever used?
Very pleased that we’re impressing a Turkish person! No comment on the roundness of the buildings but the white train carriage was used for many years by the top general to travel between Kars and Erzurum. No information available on the use of the pure bred white horses given by the Turkish general to the Russians ( really, let’s not go there..).
Another beautiful landscape but this dotted with remnants of Armenia’s sad history
It is a very sad history – the music is sad too, the diaspora continues to mourn I suspect..
Thanks for the history of the Armenians with the photos. Very good.
And sad. The Armenians seem to be building a viewing platform just across the border from the Ani site so they can presumably view the ruined churches ( at least we hope it’s a viewing platform and not a mall..).
What an extraordinary sight (site?) – seeing these magnificent edifices standing rock solid in the middle of fields and open countryside. Aren’t Italian tourists the worst – we were once in the middle of the outback in Australia and had been told to go to a particular ridge at sunset. Not only was it a spectacular sight, but thousands of birds gathered just as the sun was going down. We were congratulating ourselves on being the only ones there when two SUVs pulled up beside us blaring drum n bass on the sound system. A dozen Italians got out and sat on the bonnets of their cars shouting at each other over the music. No birds arrived.
Ah, what can I say – clearly even the sound of an Italian party has triggered that ghastly memory. No birds arrived – does it get sadder than this phrase? I noticed that two women from the Italian part had lagged behind the group, deep in conversation – I assumed probably debating the finer points of Armenian orthodox schisms ..
So ancient, so many old territorial disputes – humanity never learning… gorgeous landscapes. And to the food blog!
Yes, Elizabeth, wars, schisms, lovely landscapes and FOOD ( coming soon – M has breakfast videos with commentary to post!)
Kars and Van where is Lori and Bus? Amazing sites, sad history and present. Sorry to be so slow in reading this trip.