We returned to Istanbul yesterday and endured nearly two hours in the car to get to the hotel. We think the traffic was worse than usual because Istanbul celebrates the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople on 29 May (it took place in 1453 on that date). So what more fitting thing to do than head up north this morning to seek out the Panorama 1453 History Museum, quite a tram ride away from where we’re staying.
We were moved by the signs which explained the air conditioning system and also probibited man-spreading, to our pleasure – not that it stopped anyone.
We were also amused by the solar-powered vending machine to feed stray animals:
But back to the conquest of Constantinople. After paying an exorbitant price, and ducking between parties of school children, we were able to see the vivid account of the siege and capture of Constantinople by Mehmed the Conqueror:
We followed this up with a futile attempt to visit an early twelfth century church which has been turned into a mosque. No visitors allowed, we were told – it’s closed because it’s Friday (nothing on the website or in the guidebooks about this). This enhanced the feeling we’ve had in Istanbul – though not elsewhere – of increasing religious assertion. The number of new mosques is astonishing as is the presence of enormous Turkish flags on every hilltop:
So we ended up in the Grand Bazaar, discovering a quiet square with a lovely restaurant that clearly catered to the shopkeepers rather than tourists:
We enjoyed a trip down the Bosphorous amidst rowdy Spanish tourists and elegant Italian gay men. Some of the contrasts between old and new Istanbul were stark:
So, after three weeks exploring the east of the country, we can say with certainty that it was a fantastic experience, taking us close to the borders with Syria, Iraq, Iran, Armenia and Georgia and enriching our understanding of the complex histories of the area. We’ve met the friendliest and most charming people and made more use of Google Translate than ever before.
Yay!!! Lovely account. Great trip. See you soon. Xx
For sure, Elizabeth – hope to see you soon!
Splendid views again, and battle movie gripping. You’ve clearly picked up the knack of finding off piste restaurants. I recognise the flag presence from last year near Bodrum – no hilltop without one. Welcome home !
I found the colour of the ever present v big flag a bit disturbing in the end – too close to earlier authoritarian regimes- what is it about red and white ( answers on a postcard perhaps?)
Great trip, most inspiring. I think we too tried to visit that little church and also paid an astronomical price for our museum pass. I think we had more fun sailing around on the ferries! Looking forward to hearing more on your return xxx
Yes, ferries and Bosporus trip great ( though I also loved the overpriced panorama – particularly when they turned the sound on – crashes, shouts, cannon fire – what’s not to like?).
Safe travels! Wonderful armchair experience, thank you. X
You’re very welcome – it was a great experience even without the armchair…
Thank you for these beautiful photos and comments. Cannot wait to see you back in Glenloch Road
Back home tonight – see you soon I hope.
Lovely pictures of you both – looking very relaxed and happy so it’s clearly ben a good trip! Safe journey home! xx
It was a great trip – so beautiful, interesting and such lovely people! Back home now – hope to see you or speak with you soon.
Wonderful!. Thank you for sharing this rich experience with us. I’ve so enjoyed all the variety and learnt some history too.
So pleased Blaize! I’m not quite confident I could really say much about the middle Bronze Age but I might be able to bluff my way through the fall of Constantinople…
I imagine you’re home by now. Couldn’t get into the blog earlier. Has looked like a magnificent trip. Let me tell you the Georgians aren’t nearly so sentimental about the enormous number of stray dogs. Feed them? Sterilise them and vaccinate against rabies and stick a tag on their ear so everyone knows. We are now in Armenia heading back next Saturday.
Yes, home now – and it was a great trip! You and Charlie would love Eastern Turkey, particularly the south. I hadn’t picked up the probably efficient but decidedly unsentimental approach to dogs in Georgia – we seemed to come across dogs everywhere there but they weren’t strays I guess and just followed us from time to time looking for biscuits I think. Now, Romania, on the other hand – lots of dead dogs at the roadside – a more performative approach to rabies altogether…
This is real traveling! Thanks so much for sharing all this, I have loved reading all the accounts and looking at the photos .. especially the Ararat ones which I think I told you I last saw from the back seat of a family Ford Zephyr driving from London to Tehran in 1963 with a Russian soldier accompanying us in the car for that bit… and the beautiful monastery. Do you know yet where next?
How lovely to hear from you, Judith and delighted you enjoyed the blog. And yes, I do remember you telling us about your family drive to Tehran though the Russian soldier in the back seat was a new detail! We loved that eastern corner up against Iran and Armenia – so empty and so beautiful. Our next big trip will, we hope, be Japan ( quite a contrast).