I spent yesterday in bed looking out at the wonderful view of one of the world’s most active volcanoes, Sakurajima, which lies about 4km off the coast of Kagoshima:
It was marvellous luck that we’d upgraded to a room with a view before I became ill, so I was able to watch as the light changed throughout the day:
We were determined today to do one thing before we drove to Miyazaki a couple of hours awayand that was to visit Chiran Peace Museum. It lies on the site of an airfield which became a base for the ‘tokko’ special attack missions – or kamikaze pilots as they are known in the west. During the battle of Okinawa (which is relatively close to this southern town) at the end of the war, 1036 pilots died. The Chiran Peace Museum commemorates these young men’s bravery.
It’s a poignant place: stone lanterns (one for each pilot) line the road:
The lobby shows a film which Japanese people watch quietly before going in to the Hall (understandably no photos allowed in there):
Inside the hall are photos of all 1036 men, together with momentos, farewell letters and poems written by the young men, all under thirty. According to my guide book., they had just enough fuel to last for two hours and many never reached their target.
It was really moving, especially as many older Japanese people were in tears as they read the messages and looked at the momentos. No critical debate or moral argument was presented so it’s hard to know how visitors read this waste of lives. We would love to have had a conversation or two about it but will have to wait until we meet up with our Japanese friends again.
Outside were further testaments to these brave young men:
Poignant story.
‘The waste of life’ – there was a purpose for the individuals and the socio-historical moment. Not wasted?
Glad you’re better, Miriam. The view in recovery was beautiful xx
Being chosen to be in these squads was regarded as a huge honour so yes, you’re right, Elizabeth to question the assumption of waste. The letters to mothers and siblings though, regretting past conduct or speaking of the future for the family, are poignant and terribly sad – and the attacks, successful or not, were as pointless as the Somme in 1916.
Are you ok, Miriam? I hope it’s nothing too bad or lasting?! One feels for the waste of all that young life!
Replying on M’s behalf, yes, she’s much better though now taking some faintly vile Japanese herbal medicine ( creosote, powdered geranium and unspecified bark) and eating mostly rice… but definitely on the mend
An illness requiring a day in bed is very bad luck when on holiday but hopefully the fantastic view was some consolation – and cheered to see that Miriam was feeling well enough to venture out to the Peace Museum. Not a very cheering destination though – staggered to hear that they had so little fuel that many never made it to their target and so must have known that their death was senseless even as they died. .
I found the Peace Museum very moving and wasn’t surprised to see various older visitors in tears. I’m sure there’s a whole literature about the moral, ethical, historical context of these actions but the pictures of these young men and their letters were very poignant.
A sombre and sobering commemoration. I look forward to your further thoughts when you have opportunity to hear your friends’ views. And – very much feeling for you both when one was so ill during a busy itinerary. I’m amazed you found the mojo to keep writing, Miriam!
We wanted to reassure people that M was recovering and what better way to do this than posting the blog! The wider ethical issues of the tokko and how it’s all perceived in today’s Japan is a very big subject and we’ll return to it I hope…
Miriam you are never ill. It must have been a very impolite bug or unknown food to overwhelm your immune system. I’m glad to hear that a day in bed was helpful.
As someone who has driven in so many countries how does Japan compare?
I hope you are soon well enough to enjoy more sights and delights.
Love from Lian
Replying on M’s behalf ( she puts the blog together and I respond to comments), you’re quite right, of course : M is never ill so this was all pretty shocking. She’s definitely better now and will, I’m sure, soon eat something other than boiled rice. The driving is lovely if slow – no one speeds, uses their horn, overtakes or really travels much more than 30mph – it’s relaxing, quiet, slow ( did I mention that already?) and nearly all the cars are small and modest. Really, what’s not to like?
Oh so sad… War is so horrible.
So hope you are feeling better Miriam. And so good that you can spend your ‘healing’ day in a room with a view… and a wonderful too. X
Yes, sad and horrible whichever way you look at it. The view from the hotel was tremendous and last night there was a nearly full moon ( just beginning to wane) that was a gorgeous red – so, a good place to rest and recover. M just fine today I think.
I met someone who had been in the kamikaze squadron, if squadron is the right title, in London in the early 70s. By then Osawa was a professor at a Japanese university, I think Kyoto. He visited London a few times and sent gifts from Japan – a kind and generous man. I really loved him. He survived the war as he had appendicitis and was in hospital recovering at the time of the missions which inevitably led to the deaths of the crew. You might find out if you are able to talk to your friend whether my recollection is right, and that kamikaze was the name of the squadron.
Gosh, Hilary – that’s so interesting and extraordinary – and I’m guessing Osawa must have had all kinds of survivor’s guilt ? Did he speak about it at all? I shall ask our friends about kamikaze as a Japanese term.