We left early this morning to go bird-watching with the hotel naturalist. I expected a repetition of my usual experience: Guide: ‘See that rare lesser spotted drongo on that left branch of the third tree?’ Sue, looking through her binoculars like a proper ornithologist: ‘Oh yes! It’s beautiful.’ Me – ‘Which branch? What tree? Oh you mean that little brown spot?’ Sue and guide: ‘No. It’s gone.’
Instead, I was overwhelmed with the number and proximity of the birds as we explored the lagoon across the causeway from Mannar Island. Birds migrate here at this time of year from India and northern Europe so the whole area is awash (a-wing?) with locals and migrants.
We were very excited early on to spot the local painted stork (we didn’t need to spot it really because it was standing in front of us):
The guide was pretty sniffy and later we saw why: painted storks are ten a penny in Sri Lanka, although that doesn’t make them any less pretty:
I was pretty delighted by the weaver birds though who knows if they’re locals or not. I was told that the ones below are two different species:
Sometimes we were a little far to see: this little one (sorry – can’t remember the name) is a rare visitor, apparently. I was saved from my usual frustration (see above) by the guide who had a scope:
We were very happy to see pelicans too:
For enthusiasts, here’s an assortment of birds: enlargements and many more photos available on request.
As if we hadn’t had enough excitement for one day, today is Thai Pongol – a Hindu harvest festival honouring the sun god Surya, Indra the bringer of rains and the cow. People celebrate at home by boiling the first grains of the new rice harvest in milk in a special pot:
We popped in to the local temple without Nikhil since he would have had to take his shirt off to hear the celebratory festival drumming and see the well-dressed cow:
Humans were also in their finery: we met these three in another temple looking wonderful:
We also drove to the western tip of the island where the Hindu god Ram is said to have come across from India (only 20 km away). The series of sandbanks between here and Rameswaram in India is now called Adam’s Bridge (presumably after Adam in the Bible). The ferry which used to run from here between India and Sri Lanka stopped working in 1982 and all that’s left is a rotting jetty, lighthouse and defunct railway line:
Says something about the relations between the two countries, sadly.
Why would Nikhil have had to take his shirt off? Do all men have to do this?
Not usually I think simply to go into the temple – but this was a special festival puja so I’m guessing different rules apply. M and I were given pieces of cloth to wear as skirts ( we were both wearing modest black trousers but clearly not modest enough).
I have the same comment as Tash re Nikhil plus why didn’t he want to take his shirt off? What a great collection of birds! Think the bird you photographed through the scope is a shrike of some sort but hard to tell from behind (though I think it appears again in the montage). Loved the peacocks yesterday too.
Well, Nikhil says he was simply going to see what was happening, not to pray so couldn’t see any reason to take his shirt off – as he said at the time ‘ I’ve seen lots of temples’..The bird watching was lovely and you’re quite correct in identifying the shrike ( the guide did tell us what kind of shrike but that’s slipped away from me)- the peacocks of course are just ridiculously – and in both cases pointlessly – stunning!
Okay, I’m adding a-wing to my vocab. Astonishing and gorgeous photos esp for a non-birder (or so you claim – these are pretty loving photos!) I’m struck overall by the many celebrations, and their enthusiasm. Are these folks just generally joyful? Or are you seeking out such events in particular?
People do seem very friendly and full of smiles – it feels like their first instinct is to make eye contact and they always respond to a smile with a smile ( a far cry, it has to be said, from Bulgaria or indeed Georgia – no smiles there)
Superb photography – as a non-birder in transition..
Very happy to take you through M’s 500 bird pictures next time we meet!
I am adding to the chorus of queries about Nikhil’s reluctance to go shirtless. Has he got something to hide? Or is that an indelicate question?
Definitely an indelicate question! I stick with N’s explanation : not praying, just visiting, not going to take shirt off!
Good to hear you had a better experience of bird watching than usual, Miriam! Looks very rewarding.
It was! So many birds that you could see without binoculars so even M was able to enjoy the experience.