We were sorry yesterday to leave Jaffna and our lovely driver Dino who had picked us up from Colombo what feels like a lifetime ago and driven us everywhere since. He was gorgeous in every sense: We also regretted saying goodbye to Nikhil at Chennai Airport where he went to one terminal for the return… Continue reading Farewell Jaffna, hello Madurai
Month: January 2026
Pregnant guards of the temple
We left our astonishing accommodation (just four rooms and a butler on hand to look after us) early this morning to explore the islands off the Jaffna peninsua. The nearest are linked by a series of causeways with excellent views on either side of the prawn fishing men and their huts. Needless to say, there… Continue reading Pregnant guards of the temple
Northern Sri Lanka’s past
I am conscious that we have not yet said much about the history of this area, let alone the most recent war, so here goes as briefly as possible. Jaffna Peninsula has always been a focus for Tamil settlement as they migrated from India, with the earliest settlers arriving in the second or third century… Continue reading Northern Sri Lanka’s past
Mannar to Jaffna
Much entertainment at breakfast this morning with a very large egret standing just outside the dining area looking for something to eat in the water. And yes - it caught a fish so was also able to dine: As we left Mannar, I wanted to photograph the dozens of wild donkeys we had seen wandering… Continue reading Mannar to Jaffna
Birds and Pongol – the harvest festival
We left early this morning to go bird-watching with the hotel naturalist. I expected a repetition of my usual experience: Guide: ‘See that rare lesser spotted drongo on that left branch of the third tree?’ Sue, looking through her binoculars like a proper ornithologist: ‘Oh yes! It’s beautiful.’ Me - ‘Which branch? What tree? Oh… Continue reading Birds and Pongol – the harvest festival




