Today was our big Delhi sight-seeing day – and everyone else’s by the look of it. If you haven’t been to India, don’t forget that domestic tourists outnumber foreign tourists many times over and appear to take many more photos per capita. At the biggest sights, ticket booths are labelled men’s, ladies and foreigner (not queer politics I take it) – the latter queue always tiny in comparison. So by way of excusing some of the photos below, the chance of getting any photos without other people in the way is next to zero unless you have enormous patience and/or come early in the morning.
We began another freezing cold and foggy morning by taking our shoes off and donning the most ridiculous leg covers (hired at great expense) to visit the largest mosque in India – the Jama Masjid.
The mosque was built in the middle of the seventeenth century and accommodates some 25,000 worshippers in the courtyard, requiring an awful lot of prayer mats to be laid out:
There’s clearly been a problem with TikTok video-making, but we also wondered about the rather perfunctory ladder to get up to the mike:
We were glad to put on our shoes and go to the Red Fort for a brisk walk – brisk because it’s so very big (and very red), with ramparts covering over two kilometres. On entry, Sue proved once more that she was the daughter of a surveyor, noting that there was a problem with rising damp although fair enough, given that the fort was built in the mid-seventeenth century.
Warmed up after our run-around, we went to pay our respects to Gandhi, though we resisted the requirement to take off our shoes once more and, instead, viewed the plinth commemorating where he was cremated from the rampart:
We did stop for lunch (a delicious dosa in a very popular Delhi chain of South Indian restaurants) to recoup our energy and warm up and then drove through some pretty challenging traffic to Humayun’s tomb. It is said to be the prototype for the Taj Mahal.
We were particularly taken with the idea of the tomb for Humayun’s barber (supposedly) – an important figure since he had to be trusted with a razor at Humayun’s throat.
When we saw the long, long lines, we almost gave up at our final stop – the thirteenth century Qutb Minar Complex – but the separate ticket office and entry queue for foreigners saved the day. (Did I mention that this luxury is not entirely gratis – foreigners also pay 15 times more than locals.)
The main sight is a 72 metre tower covered in carvings and inscribed verses of the Koran, built to celebrate the success of the Muslims in Delhi. We disagree entirely with the contemporary historian John Keay who, according to the Rough Guide, claims that the tower has ‘an unfortunate hint of the factory chimney and brick kiln; a wisp of white smoke trailing from its summit would not seem out of place.’ But you see what you think.
As a break from all this red sandstone and marble, here are a pair of parakeets we found during the day – looked to us as if they were up to something. Any ideas?
Brought back some wonderful memories ❤️
V pleased , Lex – was it cold when you were in Delhi?
Wow – really admirable, the energy and dedication you two embody in getting through such a challenging agenda! Sue swathed to the scalp and wearily embracing (an absurd?) world speaks volumes. And thanks for the intros to Jama Masjid, Qutb tower, tomb etc – all new to me, if ghostly in the smog.
We worked out, we think, that the covering of knees was somehow the deciding factor in whether you had to cover up entirely or not – seemed quite a profitable number really. The light, though dull and misty, did give an eery feel to these beautiful places.
That brought back a lot of memories of over 35 years ago, thanks x
V glad, Anonymous – is this you Cate?
Dear Miriam ( and Sue)
Thank you sooo much for bringing us with you on your exciting travels which you describe so vividly – vicarious adventures a (reasonably) good second best for those of us homestayers at the moment.
Love and safe travels
Maria
So nice to hear from you, Maria – glad you’re enjoying it so far!
PS: re parakeets…it’s surely obvious ?…saying to their wee ones …
>come out quickly- tourists here taking photos and we need more ‘likes’ to compete with neighbouring 🦜 >?!
That made me laugh out loud!
Suspect the parakeets are nesting? I had six SIX in my garden today. I love the Delhi monuments but Humayuns tomb most of all. We stayed just round the corner on one trip so walking distance. I can see what the guy means re industrial chimneys. It’s that central Indian red sandstone.
SIX? Are they nesting? Will you eventually have flocks of parakeet chicks? Agree about Humayuns tomb – hauntingly beautiful.
Lovely to remember these sites and the lotus temple. Be sure to try out some fire paan and video the experience.
There is also a very interesting toilet museum in Delhi.
Many thanks for the travellers tips but sadly we’ve now left Delhi and are in Jaipur. Wouldn’t have tried the paan but the toilet museum sounds promising – might be as gripping as the Washing Machine Museum we visited years ago in, I think, the Czech Republic…
I also meant to say how much I loved Sue’s outfit! Very fetching. Anyway, off to catch my plane now!
Sadly, though fetching, it didn’t keep me warm ( apart from the usual quiet but warming seething about the patriarchy). Bon voyage and have a fab time, seeing loads of non- parakeets, in Costa Rica!
What lovely narrative of you day about Delhi. Sue’s coat (?) looks amazing.
In my view, M’s coverall was more striking in a very chic black and yellow, finely tailored and beautifully fitted. Sadly no pictures.
Why on earrth do you have to wear that thing if your leg’s are already covered (I’m assuming you weren’t wearing shorts in that weather!). Very much synmpathise with the rising damp problem- as those of us who live in London’s largely Victorian housing stock know, in old houses, there’s always something that needs doing. PS Did you go to Gandhi’s house – that was the place which moved me the most in Delhi.
Yes, knees fully covered – it was the only thing we could see that allowed some women to go unrobed ( covered knees). We didn’t go to Gandhi’s house – next time.