We arrived in the early hours of this morning, having been told to leave any plastic bags on the plane as they are forbidden in Delhi, to find a much-changed Delhi since our last visit in 2010 – spanking new and efficient airport terminal, excellent roads free of potholes (and swept clean of street sleepers), hardly any cows to be seen, smart new hospitals on show. Presumably some of this is thanks to India holding the G20 presidency up until the end of November 2023 (funny how those notices are still around everywhere …).
We began our day with a tiny bit of culture – sole visitors to the National Gallery of Modern Art and a retrospective of Jatin Das, a terrific Odishan artist (regulars will remember that we went to Odisha last year but we missed his gallery).

Art out of the way, we went in search of gardens. Another sign of the times – but we’re not sure quite how to read it – interpretations welcome!

The drinking water available free of charge 24/7 was a great development – but what did we say about the G20 signs everywhere?

While old-style auto-rickshaws (yellow and black) are still around in parts of Delhi, we were delighted to see another innovation – all these lavender rickshaws are driven by women. (We know there’s a dark side to this – but we were delighted to see the job opportunities.)

And yet another innovation – coats for dogs – even what look to us like street dogs – seem to be the rage.


It is absolutely freezing cold and foggy so the dog-coats are understandable – but a humans’ picnic at this time of the year? With this kind of pollution? Are they mad?


We’re both rather impressed by the Indian technique for instant displays (don’t bother to plant out – just keep the plants in their plastic pots!)

Our final stop before retreating from the cold was also the busiest by far: the Baha’i Lotus Temple. As we approached the temple, we had to take our shoes off, put them in a (very recycled and most certainly not plastic) bag and deposit them in exchange for a token. We then joined a very orderly (ie unIndian) to get inside (no photos, of course).

The building is made up of 27 marble lotus petals springing from nine pools (all symbolic – you can look it up). Once inside, we were told that we had a very special opportunity to join in ten to fifteen minutes of prayers in all denominations or leave immediately as the exit doors would be shut during the prayers. You’ll guess what we did,


Well this sounds like quite a full first day! Straight off the plane? No moss growing under your (unplanted) pots.
Too cold for moss I think. There’s even a cold weather warning in place …we keep on the move to keep warm.
And I do like that the implication that there are specific places to spit, rather than ‘here and there’.
Yes, my exact thoughts on seeing the notice – the importance of spitting discipline
What a nice tour!
Happy New Year to you both. X
And a very Happy New Year to you too, Elizabeth!
Happy New year to you both and hope you had a nice – and uneventful! – journey over. Delhi does look chilly – as evidencedby Sue’s puffer jacket – and smoggy, which I think is worse. Bahai Temple looks like a pretty amazing building – a touch of the Sydney Opera Houses about it – hope the interior matched up the promise of the exterior.
Happy New Year to you both and hope you had a nice – and uneventful! – journey over. Delhi does look chilly – as evidenced by Sue’s puffer – and smoggy, which is worse. The Bahai Temple looks like a pretty fantastic building – a touch of the Sydney Opera Houses about it – hope the interior lived up to the promise of the exterior.
The interior was very plain – huge open space with hundreds of chairs in rows and no decoration. Having been warned that the exits would be locked in 10 minutes prior to multi religious prayers, M and I sort of skipped any close examination though it would have been good to know if the Indians gathered ( families, children, friends) could really have maintained a selfie free, strict and reverential silence for 10 minutes. I have my doubts.
Oooh, we went there the lotus temple, literally got the t-shirt. So happy to hear about the plastic, or lack of. I wonder if this extends all over?
Somehow I sort of doubt it – plastic bottles a big, big issue. We took nothing plastic from the plane though and weren’t searched at customs ….
The weather looks grim! Or standard Delhi winter. Unlike here where it’s been raining nonstop. Not even heard of the Bahai lotus temple let alone visited. Never understand dogs in coats. What’s their fur for?
Yes, you would hate the weather – and it’s apparently even colder than usual. I agree about dogs in coats here ( especially as they’re not exactly willowy whippets). Think it might be a G20 gesture of compassion?
Ah yes I know that temple! Funnily enough, when we went in Jan 2020 we wore masks because of the pollution and took a selfie as it was so novel to wear a mask! Little did we know…
Those were the days! Simply combatting lung disease from pollution – an innocent time….
Fabulous start to this trip. Lucky our brought your parkas.
Indeed! Am slightly pining for thick socks and a good cashmere scarf….
Glad you arrived safely and we are waving from Mumbai. Looks like a great start to a wonderful trip. Much love
And very glad you two have reached Mumbai ( where I imagine – a tad plaintively – that it’s sunny and warm). Safe journey home. Xxx