On today’s agenda – visit the world-class museum displaying finds from the Lord of Sipan’s tomb; visit another museum with a recent find of a noblewoman; go to the market and find the El Brujo (witchdoctor) section. Edit photos. Write blog – very selectively. You’ll be pleased to know that you won’t be seeing the two hundred photos of the day.
Okay-short history lesson first. In 1987, an archaeologist realised that huaqueros (grave robbers) had found something special when a huge influx of intricate objects appeared on the black market. He managed to find out where the plundered tomb was and this led to the discovery of further tombs which were exceptional. The Lord of Sipan was an important leader of the Moche people (you know a lot about them now) and he was buried around AD 300 in a wooden coffin surrounded by literally hundreds of gold, ceramic and semi-precious mineral objects. His wife was also buried with him, two girls, a boy, a military chief, a flag bearer, two guards, two dogs and a llama!
Underneath him was an earlier burial of an older man also full (though not as full) of amazing stuff.
A special museum was built in 2009 symbolising a pyramid and housing all this stuff – it is just mind-blowing.
Antonio (Anthony) our guide seems to be the only gay person in Peru so far and positively squealed when he heard we were from London: he had spent a month in Norwich learning English. He took us painstakingly round the museum – and an hour and a half later, we couldn’t look at any more gold! Okay – without further ado, here are a few select pieces:
This series is from conception, through birth and breast feeding to aging and eventually death.
We’ll leave it there or else you too will need limonda and a sit-down.
The next museum was also excellent but suffered in comparison to the first. Here, although there was a noblewoman and all her possessions, we couldn’t quite look in the detail she deserved. So we’ll leave that out.
In contrast, our visit to the market this afternoon (after dire warnings from various guides to leave our valuables at home) was interesting – we caused quite a stir as the only foreign visitors. People asked us where we were from and watched us quite carefully but they were charming as the Peruvians always are when I practised my terrible Spanish on them and got permission to take their photos.
Thank you for my good luck dog! I will need it.
I will also alert my crab children to your crab person.
Witch doctors are in every culture. I suppose we just call them doctors.
I look forward to seeing you and your crab children soon. Let’s look on the bright side, you could have had spider children in which case, sadly, I’d change the locks. Hope new dog is a joy..
The green ‘no idea’ fruits are custard apples.
Well, thank you, Anonymous – am confident you’re right…
The Sipan Museum looks amazing!!
It was simply astonishing – I never think of you as much of a museum person ( or was that just Bulgarian museums?) but you would have been gripped by this one – astonishing artefacts..
Prickly pears/custard apples of course!
Thank you, Lexie – custard apples I think
What fabulous statues. Love the conception to death series.
The green fruit you said you couldn’t identify is, I think, a custard apple called chirimoya but maybe not as I think you’d know that. In Mexico the guanabano, or something like that. Anyhow totally delicious.
The Mocha ceramics are astonishing – so vivid and alive. And yes, I’m sure these were custard apples – we’ve not eaten them on this trip but they are delicious. I think M may put these questions in the blog to test if people are reading it but that may be unduly cynical…
I am certainly not tired of your amazing Peruvian finds. I am enjoying your journey enormously thanks to your photos and stories, Thank you.
And thank you for following the trip and letting us know you’re there – v glad we haven’t exhausted you!
How interesting that the seven ages of man – or eight in this case – is a universal concept. (And, come to think of it, odd that the French never got beyond the troisième age!)
Ah, les francais, what can I say? ( I was toying with trying to say that in french but just a step too far I think). The seven ages sculptures, none more than 8-10 inches tall, were exquisite..
Your photos of the astonishing pieces in the Sipan tomb museum are terrific! – permits a long zoom to really marvel at the details. Similarly for the market photos. Jeez I wish we had traditions of repair stalls for trainers and etc… Thanks so much for sharing.
We went to Chiclayo really for the astonishing museum but the market and the seaside were also a complete joy!
The Lord of Sipan museum is one of the best I’ve ever been to. I loved the witch doctor market too – all sorts of weird dried animals I recall as well as a range of herbal stuff. Your photos bring it all back. I meant to comment on yesterday’s blog but forgot. We went to Pimentel out of season and in the week and it was spooky – lots of old boats pulled up on the empty beach and everywhere was closed except one chicken shop. Good to see it’s now always like that.
Yes, I can imagine that Pimentel could be very weird on a dull afternoon out of season – not a particularly beautiful place but , in season, full of life and things to see. The museum is spectacular…
Have much enjoyed your stories. Has been very restorative in aftermath of rather too serious flu/ chest infection..
I have hazy memories of reading earlier instalments, while sleepless at night in hospital ward. Convinced they kept me going.
On the mend at home now.
Thank you both
Oh Alan – very very sorry to hear you’ve been so ill! And v glad you’re recovering well at home. Sxxx