We began our quick tour of Gaziantep with a compulsory stop at the Hammam Museum (how could we resist) which told us about bridegroom parties held in the baths, post-pueperal bathing habits (pour water over the child and mother from a wolf’s skull forty times on the fortieth day) and the habit of circumcising sons in the baths – we had a good look at the circumcision tools used by the barbers who used to do the job. We also found out that the baths often included a mikvah – a Jewish ritual bath which needed running water – which surprised us but said a lot about social relations in Ottoman times.
A trot round the bazaar and we found a shop which made the top of minarets:
We were extra pleased when our friendly shopkeeper pointed out that the minaret on the nearest mosque was, indeed, his:
And on to the Zeugma Mosaic Museum – the biggest mosaic museum in the world says Wikipedia! Many were recovered when the Euphrates river was about to be damned. Most of the finest come from a second century AD Roman villa. It’s almost impossible to give you a sense of their variety and complexity because of the display on the floor and the resulting distortion in perspective, but here is the Gypsy Girl which was displayed in her very own room:
And for the dog lovers amongst our loyal readers:
Those who fish might even be able to identify the species from these fine illustrations:
We had a break with delicious baklava (see the opening picture for our hosts) and left to seek out the Euphrates pinching ourselves that we were lucky enough to see this mythical river. But it was pretty bleak and rainy so the photos will have to wait.
Lots to say about Sanliurfa, our stop for the next two days, but we leave you with this wonderful barber’s shop spotted on our way home this evening – and we have seen so very many!
Weird reading your blog in Morocco as it all looks and sounds so familiar.
Yes, indeed – the more you travel, the more things link up – not sure I could answer any detailed questions about Mesopotamia but my Ottomans are coming on a treat..
Lots of hair is clearly everything – great quiffs! The girl mosaic was also quite something! Were you tempted to purchase a minaret top for your roof at home?
Yes, whiffs quite the thing in barber shop photos – most men here are definitely short back and sides with neat beards however. We pondered the minaret top but knew instinctively that shipping would be a problem and Camden’s planners uncooperative … probably a missed opportunity.
Slightly puzzled by the shop for minaret tops. You wouldn’t have thought there was exactly a mass market but maybe people like to put them on their chimneys or something. Love the fish mosaic and the slightly sly look of the so called gypsy girl. I remember seeing the Euphrates in Syria. Such a thrill to see something so symbolic and archaic.
Ah yes, but it was the ONLY shop selling minaret tops so may have captured a tiny but possibly lucrative market? And the Euphrates, well yes, doesn’t matter if it looks much like other rivers, it’s the Euphrates and just exciting to see it.
And was the baklava the best you have tasted?
Not sure I’ve tasted a huge amount of baklava but this one was really fresh and delicious. The of course charming guys in the shop also gave us a plate of fresh roasted pistachios to eat with it. And today we discovered pistachio coffee which is fabulous! So, total pistachio bliss I’d say.
Beautiful mosaics. The fish are splendid, it does seem possible / even likely that these were representations of fish caught locally. Perhaps keep an eye open for fish stalls? Sorry to add to you list of tasks
Will keep an eye open for fish stalls but none seen so far. We saw a lot of carp today in some ponds at Abraham’s birthplace ( yes, really) but eating them ( and why would you?) brings down some terrible curse I think.
So the number of Turkish barber shops seems excessive in Turkey as well as London – and presumably they are not all fronts for money-laundering. Baklava looks delicious but do feel sorry for the guys having to wear jackets with floral embroidery and lime gree trim. The dominant aesthetic in Turkey does seem to be dictator chic circa 1973.
Well, I’m not sure, friendly as people are, that I’d be completely confident in asking about money laundering ( particularly via google translate where I could see the whole situation getting rapidly out of hand : ‘ do you do money laundering here?’). I have to tell you one of the guys specially put on his pistachio coloured jacket to serve us. I say nothing about dictator chic as this is a public blog….