Urfa is famous for pistachio coffee – the opening photo – which is delicious: made of ground pistachio seeds and milk powder apparently. But leaving that to one side, Sanliurfa (Urfa) has been through it all: first settled by the Hurri around 3500 BCE, the Hittites and the Assyrians came along and then the Romans followed by the establishment of Edessa (as it was then known) as the first Christian kingdom in the world (AD 176-213). It went backwards and forwards between Byzantine and Arab for a while until eventually it was absorbed into the Ottoman Empire.
Being so close to Syria, Urfa’s predominantly Kurdish and Arab population has been swollen by refugees, although we heard today that about a third have gone back since the new government was established, and a third more are expected to leave following the lifting of sanctions. Right now, it’s a pilgrimage centre because it’s supposed to be the birthplace of Abraham and a whole twelfth-century mosque complex has built up around the very cave.
I went to have a look (only me because it required shoe removal and headscarf addition). After passing the scrutiny of the headscarf police, I found myself in a low and carpeted bit of cave with perspex separating us (the women and children) from the bigger part of the cave. Some worshippers were prostrate in prayer – presumably praying for pregnancy.
After that hard work praying, the gardens surrounding the cave were a marvellous retreat with everyone having a good time dressing up for the obligatory photo:
There were lots of fish to be fed (for reasons too complicated to go into):
And of course a lot of chatting to be done. The man on the left is wearing a lilac scarf – very popular colour in Urfa apparently:
We spent some time in the splendid covered bazaar drinking pistachio coffee and oohing at the goods for sale:
The city is charming with a Middle Eastern rather than Turkish feel to it, lots of honey-coloured little streets with kids playing until late at night and little shops doing their thing:
Keeping pigeons is VERY popular and we spent some time on the roof of our hotel watching our neighbour with his pigeons:
We saw at least half a dozen flocks as well as our neighbour’s flying off from rooftops, circling round and coming back to land:
And of course we went to museums – but only two startling mosaics for you today – the first apparently the earliest image of Christ known (second or third century). Much more to come tomorrow.
I think you can work out the second one for yourselves.
I remember the fish very well although, sadly, I missed the pistachio coffee.
Ah, but did you visit the actual cave birthplace of Abraham? I find I often remember the fish or the particularly nice lunch while forgetting entirely the reason for being there. Lots of religious pilgrims ( or maybe just fish fans) in the lovely gardens of Urfa..
Urfa looks amazing though id struggle to say the same about the pistachio so called coffee which looks disgusting! I seem to remember Abraham having something to do with Aleppo – obviously not born there – visited maybe?
Yes, well it’s not really coffee – more a comfort drink without stimulants ( and we all loved it). I’m not hugely well informed on the life of Abraham but various sources seem to say he definitely visited Aleppo with his flock ( sheep not followers) and fed the people there with milk from before mentioned flock. That’s it, really, as far as my knowledge of the life of Abraham goes…
Good to hear the sounds of Urfa on the clip of pigeons, and it would be good to hear more. How do you manage at night? I carry wax earplugs from Boots…
I too have ear plugs which, combined with general age related hearing loss, usually blots out most city sounds. We’ve noticed that the call to prayer also seems to happen mid morning rather than dawn so that’s definitely a plus.
I’d like to put a request in for cat photos please – I hear they’re everywhere in Turkey! Though perhaps not in the area you’re in, given the prevalence of pigeons…
Will definitely post some cat pics. So far, most of the ones we’ve seen have been pretty feral and quite grubby. Will look for respectable, well fed ( but not overweight), purry sort of cats…
Feral, grubby, respectable… all cats welcome!
Really loving the mosaics and the background history which is linking wonderfully to some books I’m reading. Sorry to be mundane but the pistachio coffee really does look delicious – is it just crushed nuts on top of strong white coffee? Or…?
Ah, that lovely coffee – misnamed really as it’s altogether free of caffeine : we think it’s made from ground pistachios and milk powder – and very delicious! In terms of the mosaics and stuff, we have today seen some completely stunning things from a very very long time ago – am confident you’ll be gripped!
Wonderful photos again and very interesting. Liked the pigeons video!
We watched the pigeons for hours – mesmerising the way they fly in circles in a properly choreographed way then all settle back down together
I am enjoying my grandson’s visit (and his girlfriend) have a nice holiday, lots of love
Mum xx
Lovely to hear from you, Yvette – v glad you had a nice time with Elliot and Sally…